Today, we’d like to show you how to change the water tank on your GE refrigerator. A water tank is used as a reservoir to hold cold water for your water dispenser. It has an input line that connects to the fill valve at the back and the output line that goes to your dispenser. It’s typically mounted in the fresh food compartment down low at the back.

It’s a really easy job to replace this part, let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we will need access to both the front and the rear of the refrigerator. We’ll need to pull it forward, we’ll also need to turn off the inlet waters supply. We also want to unplug it.

You will need to remove all of the shelving in the fresh food compartment, so you need to find a place to store that while we do the repair. Once we’ve got it pulled out and water turned off and disconnected, we can start. This particular model has a little stop on the right-hand side of the shelves, it needs to be depressed and then, you can pull the shelf completely out and we’ll just set those aside for now.

Now, if your model looks like this, with the long air website down the back, you’ll also need to remove this light cover and you’ll also need to remove the shelf and the deli drawer. We’ll begin by pulling the knob off of that control. Just grasp it and pull it off. Then, you can lift that light cover off of the two hooks at the back and we’ll set that aside.

Simply pull the meat drawer out, lift up on the shelf at the front, pull it forward to disengage it at the back, and we’ll set that aside as well. Now, our next step we’re going to remove this center duct. It’s held in place with just some plastic tabs on the side. To remove it, we’re just going to squeeze and pull it forward to release those tabs. Once we have it loose at the bottom, pressing on the top and remove it.

Now that we’ve got that shelving and the air website pulled out of the way, we’re next going to remove these two lower crispers. We’ll start by pulling the drawer out, set that aside, and then lift the shelf and the glass away from the holders, pull that outset that aside. Next, we’ll remove the cover from the bottom one.

In this particular model, there’s couple little locking tabs on the side of that bottom drawer that needs to be released. You can lift that drawer off and set that aside as well. Next, we’ll remove this little control that determines how much air comes into that bottom crisper.

It’s held in place with three Phillips screws, we’re just going to remove those, then we’ll set that aside. Next, we’re going to remove this protective cover. Now, in this model, it’s held in place with two plastic screws and a fairly fine thread, so it takes a bit to pull them out of there. Just set those aside.

Then, you can lift that cover off. There’s one slotted opening in the middle that fits over a little tab there. Next, we’ll carefully lift this styrofoam cover off the top of the water tank, lift it straight up, remove it, and set that aside. Now, we can see where we have two more screws that secure that water tank to the back wall, we can go ahead and remove those.

Now, we’re ready to disconnect both ends of that tubing. The portion that feeds the dispenser has a union underneath the front grill plate, just directly below the freezer door, and then we’ll also need to access and remove the rear panel to disconnect the tubing from the water valve. Now, to access that coupling or union for that water line, we need to remove this lower grill.

In this model, it’s held in place with two screws, one on either side, we’re just going to remove both of those. We’ll need to open up the freezer door to remove the second one. Just pull that cover off, set it aside, and we can close that freezer door back up. Before we close that freezer door back up, we’ll just pull that water line over where we can access it.

You’ll probably find some water in that line, you’ll want something to mop that up with either an old towel or dish. Now, to release this tubing from the union, this little white plastic collar, we’re just going to push that in towards the body of the union, that will release the locking tabs inside, and then we can pull the tubing out. Now, we’ll go to the back of the refrigerator so that we can pull that tubing out through from there.

Now that we have access to the back of the refrigerator, we’re next going to remove this back cover. In this model, it’s held in place with 5,16 screws. With a nut driver or a power screwdriver, just remove those and carefully lift that cover from the back.

the height right, and

You’ll see the tubing at the right-hand side of this valve.

That’s the input line to that water tank, has the same style of connector as the union on the front. We’re just going to press that into the body of the valve and pull the tubing out. Now, to release that tubing if you find a little tight to get your hands in there to lift up on that collar, you can simply take out that single mounting screw for the valve.

Unhook it from the side of the refrigerator frame, then just carefully pull it up where you can get access to it. We want to make sure that we push that collar completely up against the base of the valve and hold it there and then pull the tubing out. Now, while we’re at the back here, we should pull that tubing all the way through from the front.

Just pull it out through the back and that’ll make it easier to remove the water tank from inside. Now that we have both the inlet and outlet tubing disconnected, we can now pull that whole water tank out of the fresh food compartment. Just make sure that the garments in the floor stayed in place and then, we can put the new one in. Before we install that new one, just make sure that the little plugs are in the end of the tubing. Feed it down through that opening.

It’ll only go in so far and then you’ll have to go to the back and pull that up away or have somebody help you so that we don’t kink it. Now, we’ll feed the new tubing in through. We just continue to feed both of our lines in until the tank lines up with the mounting screw hole. Now, next, we’ll install that top center screw, then, we can put the one in on the left-hand side.

Now, make sure both of those are secure and pull that protective insulation down flush with the floor. Now, we can connect the line to the full valve and the outlet line to the union at the front. We’ll note that there is a little protective cap on the end of that inlet tubing, we’re just going to pull that off. We’ll carefully bend that tubing and we’re going to insert it into the valve.

You’ll note that there is a little indication on that tubing to indicate how far into the valve that we’re going to push that tube. First of all, we want to make sure that the end of it is a nice clean square cut. Just push it straight in, pull back on a little tug just to make sure it’s engaged. Now we go ahead and push the long tubing through the bottom of the refrigerator out to the front.

Now, next, we’re going to push that to me through to the front. We want to make sure that we do not kink this and ensure that the protective cap is in the end. Aim it towards freezer door. Once we have it pushed in their ways, we’ll go around to the front and just pull it out through. Now, with it properly routed through the front, we’re next going to reposition that valve and secure it to the cabinet.

Just make sure the tubing is not kinked anywhere, reinstall the retaining screw, now we’ll go secure it to the union at the front. Now that we have line pushed through from the back, make sure that comes up through this opening below the freezer, and inspect that end. Make sure that it’s nice clean cut, pulled up a protective cap out. Now, we’re going to insert it into that union routed through that mark. Fully insert it, a little tug back on, make sure that it’s engaged.

Now, we can put the kick plate back on. Just open up the freezer door, make sure we position that wire harness and waterline behind the kick plate. Line up that screw, get that one started.

We can come over to the other side and install that one. Now, we’re ready to put the insulating cover back on that water tank, the shield over the top it, and all the rest of the components. Our next step will be to put this styrofoam cover on top of the water tank.

We’ll line up this little notch in the center of it where that mounting screw is, then carefully fit that down over the top. Make sure it sits flush, we should just be able to see the top of that screw. Next, we’re going to put that plastic cover in place. We want to put this little U-shaped notch over top of the mounting screw, a little pushing that it has on.

Align that up, position that. Then, we can put the plastic screws in. Next, we’ll put the damper control in for that meat pan. If you’re using a cordless driver for these crews, take care that we don’t have the torq setting too high because you don’t want to strip the socket in the refrigerator liner.

Now, next, we can put the bottom drawer back in place. Again, there are some notches on that that will line up with these little locking tabs. Position is on the rails and then lock it in place. We’ll next put the cover back on.

There are notches at the back that will fit onto those two studs, and then two more at the front that sits over the front studs. Now, next, we’ll put it in the crisper shelf. Again, there are little slots at the back that line up with the rear studs and then, it’ll drop down over these slots in the front on the front studs.

Then, reinstall crisper drawer. Now, next, we’ll put the air tower back in place. Next, we’ll put that air tower on. You want to make sure that we engage these two tabs on the bottom that’s right across the top. These two slots it opens on the bottom and the three across the top.

Start on the bottom, line it up, get the height right, and then just press it into place. Now, next, we put the light cover on. We want to line up these two slotted openings on the back with the two mounting studs, just above the light bulbs. Now, when positioned properly, it should be just below the height of that bottom shelf molding and the adjustment knob shaft should be ready the very top of that opening.

Then next, we’ll put the adjustment knob on, it has a little slotted portion on one side that will line up with a little rib on that shaft. Just snap it into place. Next, we can put the meat pan in. We’ll start by putting the shelf in first. Again, there’s a notch at the back and one at the front that lines up with the mounting studs.

Then, slide the drawer into position, and then we can continue to put the rest of the shelving in. Just make sure you push them back far enough that the little locking tab on the right-hand side engages the little notch in that liner. Now, we’re ready to connect the water supply back up to the refrigerator and turn it on and check for leaks.

Now, we’ve reconnected the inlet water supply and turned it on, and then we’ve actuated the dispenser so that we could fill that water tank and displace all the air in there. Once we’ve got all that air out, we’ve determined that there are no leaks at either the output from the valve or at the input to that Junction at the front, we can now put the back cover on. Now, we’re ready to push the refrigerator back into the cabinets.

Now that we’ve put the refrigerator back into the cabinets. We’ve turned on the water, turned on the power, and verified that we have no leaks, our repair is complete.

GE Refrigerator Repair – How to Replace the Water Tank (GE # WR17X11440)

Today, we’d like to show you how to change the water tank on your GE refrigerator. A water tank is used as a reservoir to hold cold water for your water dispenser. It has an input line that connects to the fill valve at the back and the output line that goes to your dispenser.

It’s typically mounted in the fresh food compartment down low at the back. It’s a really easy job to replace this part, let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we will need access to both the front and the rear of the refrigerator.

We’ll need to pull it forward, we’ll also need to turn off the inlet waters supply. We also want to unplug it. You will need to remove all of the shelving in the fresh food compartment, so you need to find a place to store that while we do the repair.

Once we’ve got it pulled out and water turned off and disconnected, we can start. This particular model has a little stop on the right-hand side of the shelves, it needs to be depressed and then, you can pull the shelf completely out and we’ll just set those aside for now. Now, if your model looks like this, with the long air website down the back, you’ll also need to remove this light cover and you’ll also need to remove the shelf and the deli drawer.

We’ll begin by pulling the knob off of that control. Just grasp it and pull it off. Then, you can lift that light cover off of the two hooks at the back and we’ll set that aside.

Simply pull the meat drawer out, lift up on the shelf at the front, pull it forward to disengage it at the back, and we’ll set that aside as well. Now, our next step we’re going to remove this center duct. It’s held in place with just some plastic tabs on the side. To remove it, we’re just going to squeeze and pull it forward to release those tabs. Once we have it loose at the bottom, pressing on the top and remove it.

Now that we’ve got that shelving and the air website pulled out of the way, we’re next going to remove these two lower crispers. We’ll start by pulling the drawer out, set that aside, and then lift the shelf and the glass away from the holders, pull that outset that aside. Next, we’ll remove the cover from the bottom one. ll put the damper control
In this particular model, there’s couple little locking tabs on the side of that bottom drawer that needs to be released.

You can lift that drawer off and set that aside as well. Next, we’ll remove this little control that determines how much air comes into that bottom crisper. It’s held in place with three Phillips screws, we’re just going to remove those, then we’ll set that aside. Next, we’re going to remove this protective cover. Now, in this model, it’s held in place with two plastic screws and a fairly fine thread, so it takes a bit to pull them out of there.

Just set those aside. Then, you can lift that cover off. we can
There’s one slotted opening in the middle that fits over a little tab there. Next, we’ll carefully lift this styrofoam cover off the top of the water tank, lift it straight up, remove it, and set that aside. Now, we can see where we have two more screws that secure that water tank to the back wall, we can go ahead and remove those.

Now, we’re ready to disconnect both ends of that tubing. The portion that feeds the dispenser has a union underneath the front grill plate, just directly below the freezer door, and then we’ll also need to access and remove the rear panel to disconnect the tubing from the water valve. Now, to access that coupling or union for that water line, we need to remove this lower grill.

In this model, it’s held in place with two screws, one on either side, we’re just going to remove both of those. We’ll need to open up the freezer door to remove the second one. Just pull that cover off, set it aside, and we can close that freezer door back up. Before we close that freezer door back up, we’ll just pull that water line over where we can access it. You’ll probably find some water in that line, you’ll want something to mop that up with either an old towel or dish.

Now, to release this tubing from the union, this little white plastic collar, we’re just going to push that in towards the body of the union, that will release the locking tabs inside, and then we can pull the tubing out. Now, we’ll go to the back of the refrigerator so that we can pull that tubing out through from there. Now that we have access to the back of the refrigerator, we’re next going to remove this back cover. In this model, it’s held in place with 5,16 screws.

With a nut driver or a power screwdriver, just remove those and carefully lift that cover from the back. You’ll see the tubing at the right-hand side of this valve. That’s the input line to that water tank, has the same style of connector as the union on the front. We’re just going to press that into the body of the valve and pull the tubing out.

Now, to release that tubing if you find a little tight to get your hands in there to lift up on that collar, you can simply take out that single mounting screw for the valve.

and we can close

Unhook it from the side of the refrigerator frame, then just carefully pull it up where you can get access to it. We want to make sure that we push that collar completely up against the base of the valve and hold it there and then pull the tubing out.

Now, while we’re at the back here, we should pull that tubing all the way through from the front. Just pull it out through the back and that’ll make it easier to remove the water tank from inside. Now that we have both the inlet and outlet tubing disconnected, we can now pull that whole water tank out of the fresh food compartment. Just make sure that the garments in the floor stayed in place and then, we can put the new one in.

Before we install that new one, just make sure that the little plugs are in the end of the tubing. Feed it down through that opening. It’ll only go in so far and then you’ll have to go to the back and pull that up away or have somebody help you so that we don’t kink it. Now, we’ll feed the new tubing in through. We just continue to feed both of our lines in until the tank lines up with the mounting screw hole.

Now, next, we’ll install that top center screw, then, we can put the one in on the left-hand side. Now, make sure both of those are secure and pull that protective insulation down flush with the floor. Now, we can connect the line to the full valve and the outlet line to the union at the front.

We’ll note that there is a little protective cap on the end of that inlet tubing, we’re just going to pull that off. We’ll carefully bend that tubing and we’re going to insert it into the valve. You’ll note that there is a little indication on that tubing to indicate how far into the valve that we’re going to push that tube.

First of all, we want to make sure that the end of it is a nice clean square cut. Just push it straight in, pull back on a little tug just to make sure it’s engaged. Now we go ahead and push the long tubing through the bottom of the refrigerator out to the front.

Now, next, we’re going to push that to me through to the front. We want to make sure that we do not kink this and ensure that the protective cap is in the end. Aim it towards freezer door. Once we have it pushed in their ways, we’ll go around to the front and just pull it out through. Now, with it properly routed through the front, we’re next going to reposition that valve and secure it to the cabinet.

Just make sure the tubing is not kinked anywhere, reinstall the retaining screw, now we’ll go secure it to the union at the front. Now that we have line pushed through from the back, make sure that comes up through this opening below the freezer, and inspect that end. Make sure that it’s nice clean cut, pulled up a protective cap out.

Now, we’re going to insert it into that union routed through that mark. Fully insert it, a little tug back on, make sure that it’s engaged. Now, we can put the kick plate back on.

Just open up the freezer door, make sure we position that wire harness and waterline behind the kick plate. Line up that screw, get that one started. We can come over to the other side and install that one. Now, we’re ready to put the insulating cover back on that water tank, the shield over the top it, and all the rest of the components. Our next step will be to put this styrofoam cover on top of the water tank.

We’ll line up this little notch in the center of it where that mounting screw is, then carefully fit that down over the top. Make sure it sits flush, we should just be able to see the top of that screw. Next, we’re going to put that plastic cover in place. We want to put this little U-shaped notch over top of the mounting screw, a little pushing that it has on.

Align that up, position that. Then, we can put the plastic screws in. Next, we’ll put the damper control in for that meat pan. If you’re using a cordless driver for these crews, take care that we don’t have the torq setting too high because you don’t want to strip the socket in the refrigerator liner.

Now, next, we can put the bottom drawer back in place. Again, there are some notches on that that will line up with these little locking tabs. Position is on the rails and then lock it in place.

We’ll next put the cover back on. There are notches at the back that will fit onto those two studs, and then two more at the front that sits over the front studs. Now, next, we’ll put it in the crisper shelf.

Again, there are little slots at the back that line up with the rear studs and then, it’ll drop down over these slots in the front on the front studs. Then, reinstall crisper drawer. Now, next, we’ll put the air tower back in place. Next, we’ll put that air tower on. You want to make sure that we engage these two tabs on the bottom that’s right across the top.

These two slots it opens on the bottom and the three across the top. Start on the bottom, line it up, get the height right, and then just press it into place. Now, next, we put the light cover on. We want to line up these two slotted openings on the back with the two mounting studs, just above the light bulbs. Now, when positioned properly, it should be just below the height of that bottom shelf molding and the adjustment knob shaft should be ready the very top of that opening.

Then next, we’ll put the adjustment knob on, it has a little slotted portion on one side that will line up with a little rib on that shaft. Just snap it into place. Next, we can put the meat pan in. We’ll start by putting the shelf in first. Again, there’s a notch at the back and one at the front that lines up with the mounting studs.

Then, slide the drawer into position, and then we can continue to put the rest of the shelving in. Just make sure you push them back far enough that the little locking tab on the right-hand side engages the little notch in that liner. Now, we’re ready to connect the water supply back up to the refrigerator and turn it on and check for leaks.

Now, we’ve reconnected the inlet water supply and turned it on, and then we’ve actuated the dispenser so that we could fill that water tank and displace all the air in there. Once we’ve got all that air out, we’ve determined that there are no leaks at either the output from the valve or at the input to that Junction at the front, we can now put the back cover on. Now, we’re ready to push the refrigerator back into the cabinets.

Now that we’ve put the refrigerator back into the cabinets. We’ve turned on the water, turned on the power, and verified that we have no leaks, our repair is complete.

GE Refrigerator Repair – How to Replace the Water Tank (GE # WR17X11440)

Today, we’d like to show you how to change the water tank on your GE refrigerator. A water tank is used as a reservoir to hold cold water for your water dispenser. It has an input line that connects to the fill valve at the back and the output line that goes to your dispenser.

It’s typically mounted in the fresh food compartment down low at the back. It’s a really easy job to replace this part, let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we will need access to both the front and the rear of the refrigerator. We’ll need to pull it forward, we’ll also need to turn off the inlet waters supply.

We also want to unplug it. You will need to remove all of the shelving in the fresh food compartment, so you need to find a place to store that while we do the repair. Once we’ve got it pulled out and water turned off and disconnected, we can start. This particular model has a little stop on the right-hand side of the shelves, it needs to be depressed and then, you can pull the shelf completely out and we’ll just set those aside for now.

Now, if your model looks like this, with the long air website down the back, you’ll also need to remove this light cover and you’ll also need to remove the shelf and the deli drawer. We’ll begin by pulling the knob off of that control. Just grasp it and pull it off.

Then, you can lift that light cover off of the two hooks at the back and we’ll set that aside. Simply pull the meat drawer out, lift up on the shelf at the front, pull it forward to disengage it at the back, and we’ll set that aside as well. Now, our next step we’re going to remove this center duct. It’s held in place with just some plastic tabs on the side. To remove it, we’re just going to squeeze and pull it forward to release those tabs.

Once we have it loose at the bottom, pressing on the top and remove it. Now that we’ve got that shelving and the air website pulled out of the way, we’re next going to remove these two lower crispers. We’ll start by pulling the drawer out, set that aside, and then lift the shelf and the glass away from the holders, pull that outset that aside.

Next, we’ll remove the cover from the bottom one. In this particular model, there’s couple little locking tabs on the side of that bottom drawer that needs to be released. You can lift that drawer off and set that aside as well. Next, we’ll remove this little control that determines how much air comes into that bottom crisper. It’s held in place with three Phillips screws, we’re just going to remove those, then we’ll set that aside.

Next, we’re going to remove this protective cover. Now, in this model, it’s held in place with two plastic screws and a fairly fine thread, so it takes a bit to pull them out of there. Just set those aside.

Then, you can lift that cover off. There’s one slotted opening in the middle that fits over a little tab there. Next, we’ll carefully lift this styrofoam cover off the top of the water tank, lift it straight up, remove it, and set that aside. Now, we can see where we have two more screws that secure that water tank to the back wall, we can go ahead and remove those.

Now, we’re ready to disconnect both ends of that tubing. The portion that feeds the dispenser has a union underneath the front grill plate, just directly below the freezer door, and then we’ll also need to access and remove the rear panel to disconnect the tubing from the water valve. Now, to access that coupling or union for that water line, we need to remove this lower grill.

In this model, it’s held in place with two screws, one on either side, we’re just going to remove both of those. We’ll need to open up the freezer door to remove the second one. Just pull that cover off, set it aside, and we can close that freezer door back up. Before we close that freezer door back up, we’ll just pull that water line over where we can access it.

You’ll probably find some water in that line, you’ll want something to mop that up with either an old towel or dish. Now, to release this tubing from the union, this little white plastic collar, we’re just going to push that in towards the body of the union, that will release the locking tabs inside, and then we can pull the tubing out. Now, we’ll go to the back of the refrigerator so that we can pull that tubing out through from there.

Now that we have access to the back of the refrigerator, we’re next going to remove this back cover. In this model, it’s held in place with 5,16 screws. With a nut driver or a power screwdriver, just remove those and carefully lift that cover from the back. You’ll see the tubing at the right-hand side of this valve. That’s the input line to that water tank, has the same style of connector as the union on the front.

We’re just going to press that into the body of the valve and pull the tubing out. Now, to release that tubing if you find a little tight to get your hands in there to lift up on that collar, you can simply take out that single mounting screw for the valve. Unhook it from the side of the refrigerator frame, then just carefully pull it up where you can get access to it.

We want to make sure that we push that collar completely up against the base of the valve and hold it there and then pull the tubing out. Now, while we’re at the back here, we should pull that tubing all the way through from the front. Just pull it out through the back and that’ll make it easier to remove the water tank from inside. Now that we have both the inlet and outlet tubing disconnected, we can now pull that whole water tank out of the fresh food compartment.

Just make sure that the garments in the floor stayed in place and then, we can put the new one in. Before we install that new one, just make sure that the little plugs are in the end of the tubing. Feed it down through that opening. It’ll only go in so far and then you’ll have to go to the back and pull that up away or have somebody help you so that we don’t kink it. Now, we’ll feed the new tubing in through.

We just continue to feed both of our lines in until the tank lines up with the mounting screw hole. Now, next, we’ll install that top center screw, then, we can put the one in on the left-hand side. Now, make sure both of those are secure and pull that protective insulation down flush with the floor.

Now, we can connect the line to the full valve and the outlet line to the union at the front. We’ll note that there is a little protective cap on the end of that inlet tubing, we’re just going to pull that off. We’ll carefully bend that tubing and we’re going to insert it into the valve. You’ll note that there is a little indication on that tubing to indicate how far into the valve that we’re going to push that tube.

First of all, we want to make sure that the end of it is a nice clean square cut. Just push it straight in, pull back on a little tug just to make sure it’s engaged. Now we go ahead and push the long tubing through the bottom of the refrigerator out to the front. Now, next, we’re going to push that to me through to the front.

We want to make sure that we do not kink this and ensure that the protective cap is in the end. Aim it towards freezer door. Once we have it pushed in their ways, we’ll go around to the front and just pull it out through.

Now, with it properly routed through the front, we’re next going to reposition that valve and secure it to the cabinet. Just make sure the tubing is not kinked anywhere, reinstall the retaining screw, now we’ll go secure it to the union at the front. Now that we have line pushed through from the back, make sure that comes up through this opening below the freezer, and inspect that end.

Make sure that it’s nice clean cut, pulled up a protective cap out. Now, we’re going to insert it into that union routed through that mark. Fully insert it, a little tug back on, make sure that it’s engaged.

Now, we can put the kick plate back on. Just open up the freezer door, make sure we position that wire harness and waterline behind the kick plate. Line up that screw, get that one started. We can come over to the other side and install that one.

Now, we’re ready to put the insulating cover back on that water tank, the shield over the top it, and all the rest of the components. Our next step will be to put this styrofoam cover on top of the water tank. We’ll line up this little notch in the center of it where that mounting screw is, then carefully fit that down over the top. Make sure it sits flush, we should just be able to see the top of that screw.

Next, we’re going to put that plastic cover in place. We want to put this little U-shaped notch over top of the mounting screw, a little pushing that it has on. Align that up, position that.

Then, we can put the plastic screws in. Next, we’ll put the damper control in for that meat pan. If you’re using a cordless driver for these crews, take care that we don’t have the torq setting too high because you don’t want to strip the socket in the refrigerator liner. Now, next, we can put the bottom drawer back in place. Again, there are some notches on that that will line up with these little locking tabs.

Position is on the rails and then lock it in place. We’ll next put the cover back on. There are notches at the back that will fit onto those two studs, and then two more at the front that sits over the front studs. Now, next, we’ll put it in the crisper shelf.

Again, there are little slots at the back that line up with the rear studs and then, it’ll drop down over these slots in the front on the front studs. Then, reinstall crisper drawer. Now, next, we’ll put the air tower back in place.

Next, we’ll put that air tower on. You want to make sure that we engage these two tabs on the bottom that’s right across the top. These two slots it opens on the bottom and the three across the top. Start on the bottom, line it up, get the height right, and then just press it into place.

Now, next, we put the light cover on. We want to line up these two slotted openings on the back with the two mounting studs, just above the light bulbs. Now, when positioned properly, it should be just below the height of that bottom shelf molding and the adjustment knob shaft should be ready the very top of that opening. Then next, we’ll put the adjustment knob on, it has a little slotted portion on one side that will line up with a little rib on that shaft.

Just snap it into place. Next, we can put the meat pan in. We’ll start by putting the shelf in first. Again, there’s a notch at the back and one at the front that lines up with the mounting studs. Then, slide the drawer into position, and then we can continue to put the rest of the shelving in.

Just make sure you push them back far enough that the little locking tab on the right-hand side engages the little notch in that liner. Now, we’re ready to connect the water supply back up to the refrigerator and turn it on and check for leaks. Now, we’ve reconnected the inlet water supply and turned it on, and then we’ve actuated the dispenser so that we could fill that water tank and displace all the air in there.

Once we’ve got all that air out, we’ve determined that there are no leaks at either the output from the valve or at the input to that Junction at the front, we can now put the back cover on. Now, we’re ready to push the refrigerator back into the cabinets. Now that we’ve put the refrigerator back into the cabinets. We’ve turned on the water, turned on the power, and verified that we have no leaks, our repair is complete.

GE Refrigerator Repair – How to Replace the Water Tank (GE # WR17X11440)

Today, we’d like to show you how to change the water tank on your GE refrigerator. A water tank is used as a reservoir to hold cold water for your water dispenser. It has an input line that connects to the fill valve at the back and the output line that goes to your dispenser.

It’s typically mounted in the fresh food compartment down low at the back. It’s a really easy job to replace this part, let me show you how we do it. Now, to do this repair we will need access to both the front and the rear of the refrigerator. We’ll need to pull it forward, we’ll also need to turn off the inlet waters supply.

We also want to unplug it. You will need to remove all of the shelving in the fresh food compartment, so you need to find a place to store that while we do the repair. Once we’ve got it pulled out and water turned off and disconnected, we can start.

This particular model has a little stop on the right-hand side of the shelves, it needs to be depressed and then, you can pull the shelf completely out and we’ll just set those aside for now. Now, if your model looks like this, with the long air website down the back, you’ll also need to remove this light cover and you’ll also need to remove the shelf and the deli drawer. We’ll begin by pulling the knob off of that control. Just grasp it and pull it off.

Then, you can lift that light cover off of the two hooks at the back and we’ll set that aside. Simply pull the meat drawer out, lift up on the shelf at the front, pull it forward to disengage it at the back, and we’ll set that aside as well. Now, our next step we’re going to remove this center duct. It’s held in place with just some plastic tabs on the side. To remove it, we’re just going to squeeze and pull it forward to release those tabs.

Once we have it loose at the bottom, pressing on the top and remove it. Now that we’ve got that shelving and the air website pulled out of the way, we’re next going to remove these two lower crispers. We’ll start by pulling the drawer out, set that aside, and then lift the shelf and the glass away from the holders, pull that outset that aside. Next, we’ll remove the cover from the bottom one.

In this particular model, there’s couple little locking tabs on the side of that bottom drawer that needs to be released. You can lift that drawer off and set that aside as well. Next, we’ll remove this little control that determines how much air comes into that bottom crisper. It’s held in place with three Phillips screws, we’re just going to remove those, then we’ll set that aside.

Next, we’re going to remove this protective cover. Now, in this model, it’s held in place with two plastic screws and a fairly fine thread, so it takes a bit to pull them out of there. Just set those aside. Then, you can lift that cover off. There’s one slotted opening in the middle that fits over a little tab there.

Next, we’ll carefully lift this styrofoam cover off the top of the water tank, lift it straight up, remove it, and set that aside. Now, we can see where we have two more screws that secure that water tank to the back wall, we can go ahead and remove those. Now, we’re ready to disconnect both ends of that tubing.

The portion that feeds the dispenser has a union underneath the front grill plate, just directly below the freezer door, and then we’ll also need to access and remove the rear panel to disconnect the tubing from the water valve. Now, to access that coupling or union for that water line, we need to remove this lower grill. In this model, it’s held in place with two screws, one on either side, we’re just going to remove both of those.

We’ll need to open up the freezer door to remove the second one. Just pull that cover off, set it aside, and we can close that freezer door back up. Before we close that freezer door back up, we’ll just pull that water line over where we can access it. You’ll probably find some water in that line, you’ll want something to mop that up with either an old towel or dish.

Now, to release this tubing from the union, this little white plastic collar, we’re just going to push that in towards the body of the union, that will release the locking tabs inside, and then we can pull the tubing out. Now, we’ll go to the back of the refrigerator so that we can pull that tubing out through from there. Now that we have access to the back of the refrigerator, we’re next going to remove this back cover. In this model, it’s held in place with 5,16 screws.

With a nut driver or a power screwdriver, just remove those and carefully lift that cover from the back. You’ll see the tubing at the right-hand side of this valve. That’s the input line to that water tank, has the same style of connector as the union on the front. We’re just going to press that into the body of the valve and pull the tubing out.

Now, to release that tubing if you find a little tight to get your hands in there to lift up on that collar, you can simply take out that single mounting screw for the valve. Unhook it from the side of the refrigerator frame, then just carefully pull it up where you can get access to it. We want to make sure that we push that collar completely up against the base of the valve and hold it there and then pull the tubing out.

Now, while we’re at the back here, we should pull that tubing all the way through from the front. Just pull it out through the back and that’ll make it easier to remove the water tank from inside. Now that we have both the inlet and outlet tubing disconnected, we can now pull that whole water tank out of the fresh food compartment.

Just make sure that the garments in the floor stayed in place and then, we can put the new one in. Before we install that new one, just make sure that the little plugs are in the end of the tubing. Feed it down through that opening. It’ll only go in so far and then you’ll have to go to the back and pull that up away or have somebody help you so that we don’t kink it.

Now, we’ll feed the new tubing in through. We just continue to feed both of our lines in until the tank lines up with the mounting screw hole. Now, next, we’ll install that top center screw, then, we can put the one in on the left-hand side.

Now, make sure both of those are secure and pull that protective insulation down flush with the floor. Now, we can connect the line to the full valve and the outlet line to the union at the front. We’ll note that there is a little protective cap on the end of that inlet tubing, we’re just going to pull that off. We’ll carefully bend that tubing and we’re going to insert it into the valve.

You’ll note that there is a little indication on that tubing to indicate how far into the valve that we’re going to push that tube. First of all, we want to make sure that the end of it is a nice clean square cut. Just push it straight in, pull back on a little tug just to make sure it’s engaged. Now we go ahead and push the long tubing through the bottom of the refrigerator out to the front. Now, next, we’re going to push that to me through to the front.

We want to make sure that we do not kink this and ensure that the protective cap is in the end. Aim it towards freezer door. Once we have it pushed in their ways, we’ll go around to the front and just pull it out through. Now, with it properly routed through the front, we’re next going to reposition that valve and secure it to the cabinet.

Just make sure the tubing is not kinked anywhere, reinstall the retaining screw, now we’ll go secure it to the union at the front. Now that we have line pushed through from the back, make sure that comes up through this opening below the freezer, and inspect that end. Make sure that it’s nice clean cut, pulled up a protective cap out.

Now, we’re going to insert it into that union routed through that mark. Fully insert it, a little tug back on, make sure that it’s engaged. Now, we can put the kick plate back on. Just open up the freezer door, make sure we position that wire harness and waterline behind the kick plate. Line up that screw, get that one started.

We can come over to the other side and install that one. Now, we’re ready to put the insulating cover back on that water tank, the shield over the top it, and all the rest of the components. Our next step will be to put this styrofoam cover on top of the water tank.

We’ll line up this little notch in the center of it where that mounting screw is, then carefully fit that down over the top. Make sure it sits flush, we should just be able to see the top of that screw. Next, we’re going to put that plastic cover in place. We want to put this little U-shaped notch over top of the mounting screw, a little pushing that it has on.

Align that up, position that. Then, we can put the plastic screws in. Next, we’ll put the damper control in for that meat pan. If you’re using a cordless driver for these crews, take care that we don’t have the torq setting too high because you don’t want to strip the socket in the refrigerator liner.

Now, next, we can put the bottom drawer back in place. Again, there are some notches on that that will line up with these little locking tabs. Position is on the rails and then lock it in place. We’ll next put the cover back on. There are notches at the back that will fit onto those two studs, and then two more at the front that sits over the front studs.

Now, next, we’ll put it in the crisper shelf. Again, there are little slots at the back that line up with the rear studs and then, it’ll drop down over these slots in the front on the front studs. Then, reinstall crisper drawer. Now, next, we’ll put the air tower back in place.

Next, we’ll put that air tower on. You want to make sure that we engage these two tabs on the bottom that’s right across the top. These two slots it opens on the bottom and the three across the top. Start on the bottom, line it up, get the height right, and then just press it into place.

Now, next, we put the light cover on. We want to line up these two slotted openings on the back with the two mounting studs, just above the light bulbs. Now, when positioned properly, it should be just below the height of that bottom shelf molding and the adjustment knob shaft should be ready the very top of that opening.

Then next, we’ll put the adjustment knob on, it has a little slotted portion on one side that will line up with a little rib on that shaft. Just snap it into place. Next, we can put the meat pan in. We’ll start by putting the shelf in first. Again, there’s a notch at the back and one at the front that lines up with the mounting studs.

Then, slide the drawer into position, and then we can continue to put the rest of the shelving in. Just make sure you push them back far enough that the little locking tab on the right-hand side engages the little notch in that liner. Now, we’re ready to connect the water supply back up to the refrigerator and turn it on and check for leaks.

Now, we’ve reconnected the inlet water supply and turned it on, and then we’ve actuated the dispenser so that we could fill that water tank and displace all the air in there. Once we’ve got all that air out, we’ve determined that there are no leaks at either the output from the valve or at the input to that Junction at the front, we can now put the back cover on. Now, we’re ready to push the refrigerator back into the cabinets.

Now that we’ve put the refrigerator back into the cabinets. We’ve turned on the water, turned on the power, and verified that we have no leaks, our repair is complete.