This article is meant to assist with installation by giving a visual step-by-step process. Further detailed information is given in the product literature, Begin by familiarizing yourself with the installation guide and owners manual that came with the refrigerator before beginning the installation. This is an eighty inch tall refrigerator.

If you haven’t 84 inch tall space a taller door panel can be constructed to close the gap at the top of the refrigerator. This article will show the steps for a standard installation and is divided into chapters for your convenience. You may read the entire article or read the specific task you were trying to complete. Unpacking the refrigerator should be done by two people.First, cut the upper and lower bands on the carton. Remove the upper cardboard cap.

Then, remove the sleeve by sliding it up over the refrigerator. Remove the anti-tip bracket from the top of the refrigerator and set it aside for use in a later step. Remove the top styrofoam Cap and corner pieces Cut the lower styrofoam skid on both sides near the front with a utility knife. Unpack the power cord from the styrofoam and use some of the packing tape to secure it to the back at the refrigerator for now.

Carefully lean in the refrigerator forward back to front, on the skid and remove the rear portion at the styrofoam. After this is removed, carefully lean the refrigerator back until the rear wheels are on the ground. Lean refrigerator further back and remove the front portion at the skid. At this point, lower the refrigerator forward until it is safely on the ground.

Do not remove the styrofoam piece that is banded to the front of the refrigerator. This must remain in place to prevent the refrigerator from tipping forward, until after the refrigerator is secured to the anti tip bracket in the installation space. Also, do not remove the band around the door. The door should remain closed until the refrigerator is secured, to prevent tipping.

Now that the refrigerator is on the floor, it can now be moved to the installation space. Installing the anti tip bracket is a mandatory step in the process. The refrigerator is top-heavy and would be unsafe if it is not properly secured in the installation space.

To install the bracket in an eighty inch space, it should be mounted at the topmost position in the space. If installing in 84 in space, measure 80 inches from the floor and mark a horizontal line on the back wall of the space. Next, measure the installation space from left to right and mark the center. Identify any studs the installation space and make a clear vertical mark below the eighty inch line drawn earlier.

Fit the bracket up to the wall, aligning the center slot with the intersection of the lines drawn earlier and make marks within the slots, where the lineup with studs. At least one stud must be engaged. However, please engage as many studs as possible within the space. At least three fasteners should be used to secure the bracket for proper installation.

Make three marks aligned with available studs and equally spaced along the length of the bracket. Where there are no studs, use a screw anchor combination to secure the bracket in that location. Drill pilot holes in the wall where necessary in order to attach the bracket to the wall.

Use the screws and washers provided to fasten the bracket. Once all fasteners are in place, the bracket is ready to be coupled to the refrigerator. This step will cover feeding the water line into the refrigerator. If the water line has not already been prepared in the space, please refer to the design portion of the installation guide and return to this step once a water line is in place. To begin, position the appliance in front the installation space.

Locate the house supply tubing and bring it out of the space to the front of the cabinet. Turn the water on to flush debris from the line. Run about a quart of water through the line into a bucket and then shut the water off. feeding the
To connect the house water supply line to the refrigerator water line tubing, located on the bottom left corner at the back of the refrigerator, insert the ended the tuning into the water line connection.

Tighten the compression nut until it is hand-tight. Tighten one additional turn with a wrench. Do not over tighten or a leak may occur. Turn the water on to check for leaks.

You will need a dedicated 15 or 20 amp circuit for this product. Plug the power cord into the socket. Verify power to the refrigerator by opening the ice drawer to see if the interior lights are on. The temperature controls are preset to 37 degrees for the fresh food section and zero degrees for both drawers.

Allow 24 hours to stabilize before making adjustments to the temperature. To prepare the refrigerator to slide into the enclosure, remove the hinge guard from the side of the unit and set it aside for now. Remove the top plastic trim over the door to access the top panel leveling posts. Remove the top center trim cover from the refrigerator by pulling forward on the part.

Then, slowly roll the refrigerator into the enclosure, being careful not to pinch the water line or power cord. A long flat bar or yardstick may be needed to guide the front edge of the anti-ship bracket over the back of the refrigerator. Once the unit is fully in this space, the holes in the anti tip bracket should be visible through the slots in the top of the refrigerator. Use the designated screws and washers to secure the refrigerator to the anti tip bracket.

With the refrigerator in the desired location, hand-start the screws until they are snug. Make sure the refrigerator is in the desired location within the space and all gaps around the refrigerator are uniform. For a flush installation, the refrigerator case will be three quarters of an inch behind the front face of the adjacent cabinetry. The band around the door can now be safely removed and disposed.

Remove the band around the foam block in front of the token and dispose of the foam block. The refrigerator is now ready to be leveled. The front and rear leveling can be adjusted on the front of therefrigerator at the left and right bottom corners. Remove the solid portion of the toe-kick by pulling forward at the top until it is nearly flat.

Then, lift up slightly to clear the hooks at the bottom. To adjust the front legs turn the feet using an open-ended wrench. To adjust the rear legs you will need to adjust the hex nut located about the wheels.

Turn the rear screws counterclockwise to raise and clockwise to lower the refrigerator. It is best to adjust the front legs first, then move to the back. Adjust the height of the refrigerator to match the installation cut-out opening. And until it is level front to back and left to right. Be sure the front of the doors and drawers on the refrigerator are still three quarters of an inch behind the front face of the cabinetry, to assure a flush fit when the door panels are installed.

Reinstall the solid portion of the toe kick by hooking it on the brackets at the bottom and rotating at up until it snaps in place. Before installing the hinge guard, please make sure the door swing is appropriate for your kitchen. If you need to reverse the door, please see the chapter on hinge swing reversal. This appliance must be installed and operated with the hinge guard in place to be used safely.

Attach the hinge guard by sliding the guard between the case in adjacent cabinetry on the hinge side. Fasten the plastic hinges to the front of the door, using using four screws, being careful not to over tighten them. Verify the gaurd is functional by opening and closing the door to make sure it moves smoothly.

Please note: If you are installing panels the use a raised panel design, be sure that the fastening screws are attached to the areas in which the panel death is a minimum of three quarters of an inch deep. Installing the upper door panel starts with removing all door and drawer hooks from the refrigerator, so they can be used to attach to the custom panel.

Align door hooks at each of the four corners of the panel, facing downward and screw them in place. well next Next, attach the top L bracket to the door panel and screw it in place. The panel is now ready to be placed on the door. First, open the door and align the hooks with the slots on the door.

Make sure the top bracket holes are aligned with the screw posts on top of the door. Press panel into the slots and slide panel downward into position. The panel can now be aligned, using the adjustable screw posts on top at the door to raise, lower, or rotate as needed to get even gaps around the refrigerator. Once the panel is aligned correctly, lock it in place by tightening the nuts onto the screw posts at the top.

Next, screw the lower bracket into the bottom of the door and the panel. Reinstall the top plastic trim cover to the screw posts. To install the freezer drawer panel, install the freezer drawer hooks facing up on the panel. Install the lower bracket on the bottom of the drawer, centering it in the slots to start.

The lower bracket controls the vertical alignment of the panel, so it may need to be adjusted until panel gaps are consistent and appropriate for your installation. Attach the panel to the drawer by aligning with the drawer slots and gently slide the panel up into position. Continue to hold the panel in place while screwing the lower bracket to the drawer bottom, to lock it in place.

The convertible drawer panel may be installed in a similar fashion. With the hooks facing down, slide the panel on the door. Position the panel as needed to achieve appropriate gaps and attach the lower bracket to lock the panel in place. All panel should now be in place and secured.

Finally, fully tighten the anti-tip screws and replace the top trim cover. Installation is now complete and the refrigerator is ready for use. Reversing the door swing and adjusting the door angle may be necessary based on the set up at your kitchen. To reverse the door swing, open the door and be sure to deactivate the self-close mechanism by loosening the torque screw from one to zero on both hinges.

Close the door, then use an Allen wrench to remove the two screws in each hinge that secure the door to the refrigerator. Make sure you have a second person available to help remove the door since it is heavy. Next, open the hinges and use the allen wrench to remove the hinge by removing the two screws from each hinge that secures it to the cabinet. The trim pieces on the top and bottom of a compartment are divided into three parts.

You will need to first remove the centerpiece in order to remove the two outside pieces. Note that the control panel will need to be unplugged and will not be reinstalled until the door is installed. Take the two outer parts of the trim on top and bottom and install them on the opposite side. When reinstalling the hinges, the top hinge will be turned over and move to the bottom position, while the bottom one will be turned over and move to the top position.

Now, install the screws that secure the hinge into the cabinet about half way, but without the hinge in place. Then, slide the hinges over the screws and seep the tabs into the hinge pocket. Tighten the screws and close the hinges. Remove the hinge brackets from the door and reinstall them on the opposite end; top and bottom.

With help from another person, attach the door to the hinges by lining up the brackets. Make sure you install the screws to the top hinge before the bottom hinge. Then, use the torques driver to turn the screws from 0 to 1, to activate the self-close mechanism. Finally, reconnect and reinstall the control panel.

Your door will come sey at a standard opening of 115 degrees. However, based on walls and cabinet placement, this opening may be too big. be necessary based on the
if this is the case, you can insert two hinge pins to stop the door at a 90-degree opening. If installing custom panels, a few added steps need to be done in order to properly install the panels. enclosure, remove the hinge
Routing will need to be done on the back of the panels for the brackets that attach the panels to the door.

EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: Custom wood panels must be at least three quarters of an inch thick, where hooks, bracket hardware, and custom handles are attached. This will more than likely be done by your cabinet panel maker. A routing template will be provided but if the template is lost, the installation guide can be used for the correct routing location and dimensions.

Then, you will need to drill counter-sunk holes for door and drawer handles. The dimension for these holes will depend on your handle design and the placement you prefer for your handles.

Installing a Monogram Refrigerator

This article is meant to assist with installation by giving a visual step-by-step process. Further detailed information is given in the product literature, Begin by familiarizing yourself with the installation guide and owners manual that came with the refrigerator before beginning the installation. This is an eighty inch tall refrigerator.

If you haven’t 84 inch tall space a taller door panel can be constructed to close the gap at the top of the refrigerator. This article will show the steps for a standard installation and is divided into chapters for your convenience. You may read the entire article or read the specific task you were trying to complete. Unpacking the refrigerator should be done by two people.First, cut the upper and lower bands on the carton.

Remove the upper cardboard cap. Then, remove the sleeve by sliding it up over the refrigerator. Remove the anti-tip bracket from the top of the refrigerator and set it aside for use in a later step. Remove the top styrofoam Cap and corner pieces Cut the lower styrofoam skid on both sides near the front with a utility knife. Unpack the power cord from the styrofoam and use some of the packing tape to secure it to the back at the refrigerator for now.

Carefully lean in the refrigerator forward back to front, on the skid and remove the rear portion at the styrofoam. After this is removed, carefully lean the refrigerator back until the rear wheels are on the ground. Lean refrigerator further back and remove the front portion at the skid.

At this point, lower the refrigerator forward until it is safely on the ground. Do not remove the styrofoam piece that is banded to the front of the refrigerator. This must remain in place to prevent the refrigerator from tipping forward, until after the refrigerator is secured to the anti tip bracket in the installation space. Also, do not remove the band around the door. The door should remain closed until the refrigerator is secured, to prevent tipping.

Now that the refrigerator is on the floor, it can now be moved to the installation space. Installing the anti tip bracket is a mandatory step in the process. The refrigerator is top-heavy and would be unsafe if it is not properly secured in the installation space.

To install the bracket in an eighty inch space, it should be mounted at the topmost position in the space. If installing in 84 in space, measure 80 inches from the floor and mark a horizontal line on the back wall of the space. Next, measure the installation space from left to right and mark the center. Identify any studs the installation space and make a clear vertical mark below the eighty inch line drawn earlier.

Fit the bracket up to the wall, aligning the center slot with the intersection of the lines drawn earlier and make marks within the slots, where the lineup with studs. At least one stud must be engaged. However, please engage as many studs as possible within the space. At least three fasteners should be used to secure the bracket for proper installation. Make three marks aligned with available studs and equally spaced along the length of the bracket.

Where there are no studs, use a screw anchor combination to secure the bracket in that location. Drill pilot holes in the wall where necessary in order to attach the bracket to the wall. Use the screws and washers provided to fasten the bracket. Once all fasteners are in place, the bracket is ready to be coupled to the refrigerator.

This step will cover feeding the water line into the refrigerator. If the water line has not already been prepared in the space, please refer to the design portion of the installation guide and return to this step once a water line is in place. To begin, position the appliance in front the installation space. Locate the house supply tubing and bring it out of the space to the front of the cabinet. Turn the water on to flush debris from the line.

Run about a quart of water through the line into a bucket and then shut the water off. To connect the house water supply line to the refrigerator water line tubing, located on the bottom left corner at the back of the refrigerator, insert the ended the tuning into the water line connection. Tighten the compression nut until it is hand-tight. Tighten one additional turn with a wrench. Do not over tighten or a leak may occur.

Turn the water on to check for leaks.

order to

You will need a dedicated 15 or 20 amp circuit for this product. Plug the power cord into the socket. Verify power to the refrigerator by opening the ice drawer to see if the interior lights are on.

The temperature controls are preset to 37 degrees for the fresh food section and zero degrees for both drawers. Allow 24 hours to stabilize before making adjustments to the temperature. To prepare the refrigerator to slide into the enclosure, remove the hinge guard from the side of the unit and set it aside for now. Remove the top plastic trim over the door to access the top panel leveling posts. Remove the top center trim cover from the refrigerator by pulling forward on the part.

Then, slowly roll the refrigerator into the enclosure, being careful not to pinch the water line or power cord. A long flat bar or yardstick may be needed to guide the front edge of the anti-ship bracket over the back of the refrigerator. Once the unit is fully in this space, the holes in the anti tip bracket should be visible through the slots in the top of the refrigerator.

Use the designated screws and washers to secure the refrigerator to the anti tip bracket. With the refrigerator in the desired location, hand-start the screws until they are snug. Make sure the refrigerator is in the desired location within the space and all gaps around the refrigerator are uniform.

For a flush installation, the refrigerator case will be three quarters of an inch behind the front face of the adjacent cabinetry. The band around the door can now be safely removed and disposed. Remove the band around the foam block in front of the token and dispose of the foam block. The refrigerator is now ready to be leveled. The front and rear leveling can be adjusted on the front of therefrigerator at the left and right bottom corners.

Remove the solid portion of the toe-kick by pulling forward at the top until it is nearly flat. Then, lift up slightly to clear the hooks at the bottom. To adjust the front legs turn the feet using an open-ended wrench. To adjust the rear legs you will need to adjust the hex nut located about the wheels. Turn the rear screws counterclockwise to raise and clockwise to lower the refrigerator.

It is best to adjust the front legs first, then move to the back. Adjust the height of the refrigerator to match the installation cut-out opening. And until it is level front to back and left to right. Be sure the front of the doors and drawers on the refrigerator are still three quarters of an inch behind the front face of the cabinetry, to assure a flush fit when the door panels are installed.

Reinstall the solid portion of the toe kick by hooking it on the brackets at the bottom and rotating at up until it snaps in place. Before installing the hinge guard, please make sure the door swing is appropriate for your kitchen. If you need to reverse the door, please see the chapter on hinge swing reversal.

This appliance must be installed and operated with the hinge guard in place to be used safely. Attach the hinge guard by sliding the guard between the case in adjacent cabinetry on the hinge side. Fasten the plastic hinges to the front of the door, using using four screws, being careful not to over tighten them.

Verify the gaurd is functional by opening and closing the door to make sure it moves smoothly. Please note: If you are installing panels the use a raised panel design, be sure that the fastening screws are attached to the areas in which the panel death is a minimum of three quarters of an inch deep. Installing the upper door panel starts with removing all door and drawer hooks from the refrigerator, so they can be used to attach to the custom panel.

Align door hooks at each of the four corners of the panel, facing downward and screw them in place. well next Next, attach the top L bracket to the door panel and screw it in place. The panel is now ready to be placed on the door. First, open the door and align the hooks with the slots on the door. Make sure the top bracket holes are aligned with the screw posts on top of the door. Press panel into the slots and slide panel downward into position.

The panel can now be aligned, using the adjustable screw posts on top at the door to raise, lower, or rotate as needed to get even gaps around the refrigerator. Once the panel is aligned correctly, lock it in place by tightening the nuts onto the screw posts at the top. of the
Next, screw the lower bracket into the bottom of the door and the panel. Reinstall the top plastic trim cover to the screw posts. To install the freezer drawer panel, install the freezer drawer hooks facing up on the panel.

Install the lower bracket on the bottom of the drawer, centering it in the slots to start. The lower bracket controls the vertical alignment of the panel, so it may need to be adjusted until panel gaps are consistent and appropriate for your installation. Attach the panel to the drawer by aligning with the drawer slots and gently slide the panel up into position.

Continue to hold the panel in place while screwing the lower bracket to the drawer bottom, to lock it in place. The convertible drawer panel may be installed in a similar fashion. With the hooks facing down, slide the panel on the door.

Position the panel as needed to achieve appropriate gaps and attach the lower bracket to lock the panel in place. All panel should now be in place and secured. Finally, fully tighten the anti-tip screws and replace the top trim cover. Installation is now complete and the refrigerator is ready for use.

Reversing the door swing and adjusting the door angle may be necessary based on the set up at your kitchen. To reverse the door swing, open the door and be sure to deactivate the self-close mechanism by loosening the torque screw from one to zero on both hinges. Close the door, then use an Allen wrench to remove the two screws in each hinge that secure the door to the refrigerator.

Make sure you have a second person available to help remove the door since it is heavy. Next, open the hinges and use the allen wrench to remove the hinge by removing the two screws from each hinge that secures it to the cabinet. The trim pieces on the top and bottom of a compartment are divided into three parts.

You will need to first remove the centerpiece in order to remove the two outside pieces. Note that the control panel will need to be unplugged and will not be reinstalled until the door is installed. Take the two outer parts of the trim on top and bottom and install them on the opposite side.

When reinstalling the hinges, the top hinge will be turned over and move to the bottom position, while the bottom one will be turned over and move to the top position. Now, install the screws that secure the hinge into the cabinet about half way, but without the hinge in place. Then, slide the hinges over the screws and seep the tabs into the hinge pocket. Tighten the screws and close the hinges.

Remove the hinge brackets from the door and reinstall them on the opposite end; top and bottom. With help from another person, attach the door to the hinges by lining up the brackets. Make sure you install the screws to the top hinge before the bottom hinge.

Then, use the torques driver to turn the screws from 0 to 1, to activate the self-close mechanism. Finally, reconnect and reinstall the control panel. Your door will come sey at a standard opening of 115 degrees. However, based on walls and cabinet placement, this opening may be too big. if this is the case, you can insert two hinge pins to stop the door at a 90-degree opening.

If installing custom panels, a few added steps need to be done in order to properly install the panels. Routing will need to be done on the back of the panels for the brackets that attach the panels to the door. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: Custom wood panels must be at least three quarters of an inch thick, where hooks, bracket hardware, and custom handles are attached.

This will more than likely be done by your cabinet panel maker. A routing template will be provided but if the template is lost, the installation guide can be used for the correct routing location and dimensions. Then, you will need to drill counter-sunk holes for door and drawer handles.

The dimension for these holes will depend on your handle design and the placement you prefer for your handles.